Ingredients:

(serves 4)

2 lb/ 1 kg green or white asparagus

1 oz/ 25 g unsalted butter

4 shallots, trimmed, peeled and finely chopped

2 pints/ 1 litre mild vegetable stock

2 tablespoons mixture of fresh tarragon, chervil and chives, finely chopped

1 teaspoon celery salt

Freshly ground white pepper

Fine sea salt (optional)

9 fl oz/ 250 ml crème fraiche or single cream

Method:

1. Snap off the woody stems from asparagus spears, and discard them (or use them to make stock).

2. Cut the asparagus into approximately 3-inch pieces. Steam for around 3 to 4 minutes. Refresh in cold water and set aside.

3. Melt the butter in a soup pot, and sauté the shallots for 2 or 3 minutes on medium heat. Add the cooked asparagus pieces, and stir for another minute or two.

4. Add the stock, most of the herbs (reserve a few for garnish), celery salt, and pepper. Bring the soup to a boil, reduce the heat, cover with lid, and simmer for 30 minutes. The asparagus should be very tender. Let the soup cool slightly.

5. Blitz the soup in a food processor until smooth, then sieve into a clean saucepan. Pour in the crème fraiche or cream. Heat gently, but do not allow to boil. Season with white pepper. Taste the soup – it should already have enough salt because of the vegetable stock and celery salt, but add some sea salt if necessary.

6. Ladle the soup into individual bowls and garnish with the remaining fresh herbs. Add swirls of extra crème fraiche or cream if desired, and serve immediately.

Note: Ideally, this soup is made with the finest ingredients: locally grown asparagus from the farmers’ market, the freshest artisan-made unsalted butter and cream, home-made vegetable stock (or asparagus cooking water), and a shower of the sprightliest of spring herbs from the garden.

Use green or white asparagus according to preference: the French value the white variety for its superior flavour, whereas the English believe green asparagus tastes finer. Serve the soup with rustic French country bread or good-quality baguette – warmed, and smeared, if you like, with a little Dijon or wholegrain mustard. Or use the whole bread as a serving dish by taking the core out.